How to Add a Gate to a Chain Link Fence

Maybe you didn’t anticipate needing a gate in your chain link fence when you built it, or perhaps you want to replace your single gate with a double gate that will allow you to get vehicles or tractors into the yard. That’s alright. It’s quite easy to add a gate if you know what to do, have some helpers, and have the right tools.

Before we get to the step-by-step guide, there’s an important question you need to ask yourself: Where do you want the gate? 

The location of your chain link fence gate will change the installation steps and materials. There are three common configurations for adding a gate to your chain link fence:

1. Between two terminal posts
2. Next to a terminal post
3. On the fence line, with no terminal posts

Tools and Supplies You Will Need

Here’s a list of everything you need to install a gate to your chain link fence:

• Tape measure
• Bolt cutters
• Hacksaw
• Sharpie marker or spray paint
• Post hole digger
• Wrench 
• Concrete mix
• Buckets for mixing concrete and water
• 2 terminal posts and post caps
• Chain link fence gate
• Gate Hardware
• Rail ends
• Fence stretcher bar
• Tension bands with nuts and bolts
• Tension bar
• Aluminum fence tie

Steps to Add a Gate Between Two Terminal Posts

A terminal post refers to corner posts, end posts, or gate posts. If you’re having trouble locating them: they’re generally taller than the line posts, plus the top rail of your fence runs into them. 

The easiest way to go about this project is to place a gate between two terminal posts. Because you won’t have to tear down or reassemble much. But here’s the catch, terminal posts typically are not spaced far enough to fit a standard-sized fence gate. So you will likely need a custom-sized gate if going for this option. 

Step 1: Remove Hardware Holding the Fence

The first step is clear space for the new gate between two fence posts. Untie the aluminum tie wires from the top rail and the line posts. Remove hog rings from the bottom wire, if you have one, located between the two terminals. 

Then, move on to the tension bands. Remove nuts from bolts on your tension bands holding the stretched chain link to each terminal post. Next, remove the bolts too. 

Step 2: Remove the Fence Between Posts

As one side gets unfastened, your chain link fabric will lose its tightness. 

Caution: Be careful at this point because some chain link fabric is stretched very tightly and it will spring back forcefully. This can pinch your fingers too. Bolts may also “fly” off the bands like a bullet so it’s advised you and your helper(s) wear safety goggles too.

To avoid getting injured, have your helpers grab the ends of the chain link fabric at safe spots before you undo the last nuts and bolts at the post. Slowly “contract” or withdraw the fence fabric to the other terminal post.

Step 3: Detach the Top Rail

Remove the top rail by undoing the bolt from the brace band and rail end cup at one end. Then, remove the bolt and rail end cup on the other side. If you’re making a gate instead of buying it ready-made, you can use the same rail. 

Also, remove all the other bands on the fence posts that you don’t need anymore. 

Step 4: Measure the Gate Opening

Once you have an open space between two terminal posts, you’re ready to order or custom-build your new fence gate. If you’re ordering one, measure the gate opening between posts. This should be the distance between or “inside to inside” the two terminal posts. 

Add 4 inches to this measurement for the gate hardware. This is the INSIDE measurement for your new gate posts. 

Note: If you are installing a preassembled chain link fence gate, skip steps 5, 6, and 7. 

Step 5: Assemble the Gate Frame and Tension Bands

Once you have your gate, it’s time to set it up. Assemble the gate frame by sliding all the tubes together and slip tension bands on the tubing to attach the mesh. Space the tension bands evenly from top to bottom. 

Use at least three tension bands for each tension bar. But if your gate is taller than four feet you will need four or more tension bands, depending on the size. 

Feed a tension bar into the chain link mesh through the end loops of the fence fabric. Thread the bar along the entire width of the mesh to keep the chain link fence in place.

Step 6: Attach Tension Bars

Attach the tension bar onto the tension bands on one side rail and weave the second tension bar into the fence mesh close to the other side rail. The mesh should be taut once you attach it to the tension bands. 

Remove the extra mesh near the second tension bar and clip the extra fence fabric with wire cutters or pliers. Pull and stretch the second tension bar tightly and slip the tension bar into the tension bands. If you feel the fence fabric is not tight enough in this position, you can unhook the tension bar and slip it into the next set of loops. 

Ask your helper to hold the mesh tight while you apply the nuts and bolts to the post hinges at this stage.

Step 7: Tie the Mesh

Give the final touches by tying all the mesh in place at the top and bottom of the gate. At this point, the fence fabric needs to extend ½ to 1 inch above the top row of your gate tubing. At the first knuckle, cut it off with pliers and bend the sharp ends back down for a neat look. 

Tie the mesh in place with chain link fencing ties. For a four feet wide gate, use two ties for every side and attach one to each cross member. If your gate is wider than four feet then you must add an extra tie to resist wear on the fabric. 

Step 8: Hang Hinge Straps and Hinges

It’s time to hang the gate. Prepare the space by installing hinge straps. Space them evenly and use a wrench to secure them in place. Position the gate by supporting it with wood blocks or bricks. Mark the gatepost where the hinge straps will meet. 

Next, set aside the gate and loosely attach the hinge halves to the posts at their approximate place with the help of pins. Tighten these pins in the location with the top pin pointing down and the bottom one pointing upwards. 

Again, place the gate on a block of wood or bricks or ask your helper to hold it up for you and measure the location of the bottom hinge. Move the post-side of the hinge in its place and tighten it. Then, lower the gate-side hinge onto the pin and hold it in place. Carefully lower the top post-side hinge until you feel that it is holding the gate in place, tighten the hinge on the post then. 

Finally, give your newly hung gate a test and check if it’s opening and closing smoothly. Ensure that all four hinge pieces are aligned with each other. If you see too much or not enough room for the latch to operate properly, loosen the hinges and rotate them around the gate or the post to fix them.

Step 9: Hang the Gate

Place the latch catch on the gatepost, opposite your hinges, and secure it. Glide the latch pin onto the gate’s side rail and line it up with the catch you placed. Tighten it in place with a socket wrench. 

And voila! You have a gate in your chain link fence now. 

Steps to Add a Gate Next to A Terminal Post

This one is simple too, since you only have to add another terminal post. 

Step 1: Disconnect the Chain Link Fence

The first step is to disconnect the bands and bolts that are stretching and holding your chain link fence to the terminal post where the new gate will go. Again, be careful at this step since the chain link fabric is tightly stretched during installation and can “spring” back when disconnected abruptly. 

Loosen or untie the fence tie wires holding the chain link to the top rail and “peel” back the chain link fabric far beyond the point where your other gate post belongs. 

Step 2: Measure the Location of the New Gate Post

Start from the inside of your terminal post along the top rail and measure the approximate location where you want the next gate post to be. This measurement should include the space that hinges and the gate latch will take too.

So, if the gate is designed for a 50 inches wide opening you need to measure 50 inches. 

Step 3: Cut the Top Rail

Using a hacksaw, pipe cutter, or flame thrower, cut the top rail. Do not cut too far from the terminal post or your existing gate post because you will need to cut the remainder of the top rail again for the exact fit after the post is installed. 

You also have the option to not cut the rail at this point. But you need to make sure that you can force it out of the way when digging the new gate post hole. If you’re leaving the rail uncut, disconnect the bolt and rail end cup at your existing terminal post and push the rail out of your way. 

Step 4: Measure Again!

It’s time to measure the “insides”. 

Allow space that the new gate hinges and the latch will use and measure along the ground the inside measurement for your new gate. You can place the hardware on your gate and measure from hinge to latch for accurate space. 

When you measure the ground for the inside of your new gate post, mark the ground and add ½ the diameter of the post to it to get the center of your new gate post hole. Find the center of the other dimension by using a string or simply eyeball down the fence line.

Step 5: Dig and Set the Gate Post

Using your post hole digger, dig a hole that is 36 inches deep with a diameter of 6 to 8 inches. Keep the diameter larger at the bottom of the hole than the top diameter. Place the new post in its position in the hole and pour concrete mix into the hole.

Fill the concrete to within a few inches of the top of the ground but leave some space. Be sure to maintain proper gate opening size while you pour concrete in because posts can easily shift out of position. Simply put, hold the pole upright or plumb it upright until the concrete sets. 

Once set, your post should be one or two inches higher than the height of the fence. Leave the concrete to be fully set for two to three days. 

Step 6: Set Up and Hang the Gate on New Post

After the concrete sets, it’s time to prepare for the gate hanging. Place your brace bands, rail end cups, and bolts on the new post for your top rail. Recut the top rail that you left earlier to fit exactly into the BACK of the rail cup. 

At this point, recheck to see that the rail end cup is tight and that the top rail is centered on the post. The top rail should be level or at least should run smoothly into the new post. Restretch your chain link fence fabric using a stretcher to reach the new gate post, secure it, and you’re ready to hang the gate. 

Hang the gate by fixing all the hinges, nuts, and bolts as directed above, and enjoy a new gate in your chain link fence.

Steps to Add a Gate to an Existing Fence Line

Adding a gate in the middle of an existing fence line with no terminal posts is the hardest installation. This is because you will have to add two new gate posts and the fence needs restretching on both new posts. So, a lot of labor!

You will need two new tension bars, bolts, tension bands, rail end cups, and brace bands to hook up your chain link to the newly installed posts. 

Step 1: Measure and Mark Gate Opening

Choose where you want the new gate to go and use spray paint or popsicle sticks to mark the center of the holes for your posts. The above section explains how to measure the width of the gate opening. That measurement will be the inside of the center-to-center measurement of your new gate post holes. 

Step 2: Cut the Chain Link Mesh

Once you’ve made the markings, take your pliers and cutters to cut the chain link fabric at the center of those marks. Practice caution because the chain link is tightly stretched and can harm you as you cut the wire. You and your helpers should wear protective goggles for this step to prevent injury. 

After making the cut, loosen the fence tie wires and peel back the chain link mesh slowly from the cut. Cut the top rail too, at the center of your new gate and push it over. Prop something against it or tie it out of your work area. You will cut these later for the exact fit.

Step 3: Install the First Post

Grab your digger and dig both post holes to a depth of 30 to 36 inches with 6 to 8-inch diameters. Don’t forget to “bell” them – keep the diameter large at the bottom and narrower at the top for better grip. 

Set the first post in the center of the fence line so it lines up with the rest of the posts and pour in the concrete. Support the post and leave it for two or three days before you go on to the next post. 

Step 4: Hang the Gate and Second Post

Install gate hinges, bolts, and other hardware mentioned earlier on the newly set post and hang the gate. This will help you determine the exact location of the next gate post now. Factoring in the space for gate hinges and latch, mark the spot. Set the second post in the marked location and concrete it to secure its spot.

Step 5: Restretch the Chain Link Mesh 

It’s time to put everything together!

Cut and adjust the top rail to reach the new post, as explained earlier. Restretch the chain link mesh using your and your helper’s hands or a stretcher bar tool to reach the new posts. Do not over- or under-stretch it. 

Next, secure the fence and retie the mesh to the top rail with fence tie wires and you have a new gate in the middle of your chain link fence. Enjoy! 

Frequently Asked Questions

Is This Too Much DIY for You?

Fencing and all fence-related maintenance are labor-intensive. We get it. It’s better to save yourself some backache and leave it to the pros. Our FenceGnome experts can add a gate to your existing fence, make it more private, paint your fence, and do all your fencing labor for you. 

Main Image Credit: r. nial bradshaw / Flickr / CC BY 2.0